After a few high-energy days exploring Tokyo, our family was more than ready to hit pause—and Hakone delivered the perfect mix of culture, scenery, and recharge time.
We traded skyscrapers for steam vents, ramen shops for hot springs, and the pace of the city for the quiet hum of mountain life. This scenic region, just a couple of hours outside Tokyo, is known for its natural hot springs, views of Mount Fuji, and the famous Hakone “circuit”—a full-day loop involving cable cars, ropeways, pirate ships, and even a mountain train.
Staying in a Ryokan: A Step into Japanese Tradition
We checked into Hotel Hakone Kowakien TEN-YU, a modern ryokan nestled in the forested hills. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn, where the hospitality is as intentional as the design. Think sliding doors, tatami mat floors, and low tables for tea—all designed to help you slow down and be present.
Our room was a spacious family room and spacious it was! The futon converted to a king bed which was made up for us during turn down service. All of our hotels in Japan separated the toilet from the rest of the bathroom which made sharing with a family much easier.
Every guest is provided a yukata, a light cotton kimono, and it’s totally normal to wear it everywhere—from your room to the gardens to dinner. It sounds a little funny at first, but it’s surprisingly freeing. Once you slip into one, you immediately feel part of something special. One of our favorite little touches at the ryokan was the thoughtful addition of arm bands offered at the entrance to the restaurants – —these simple bands are used to cinch up the sleeves so they don’t drag in your food. It’s a small detail, but such a smart one, and a great example of how Japanese hospitality anticipates needs you didn’t even know you had.
We opted for a family room with a private onsen—a natural hot spring soaking tub on our terrace. While many visitors enjoy the traditional public baths, nudity is required, and our family decided that’s one cultural boundary we weren’t quite ready to cross. Thankfully, the private onsen offered the same peaceful ritual with a little more privacy. Soaking under the stars after a full day of exploring? Pure magic.
One of the most peaceful moments of our stay was the foot soak on the hotel’s terrace—a shallow, steaming onsen-style bath with built-in benches and a small table for your tea or towel. Surrounded by mountain views and crisp air, it was the perfect place to slow down. Connor and I shared some quiet one-on-one time there, just the two of us soaking our feet and taking it all in. It’s one of those small, unexpected moments that ends up feeling really big in your memory.
Dinner Decisions & One Epic Breakfast
One thing to know before staying at a ryokan: meals are a big part of the experience. At TEN-YU, there were multiple dinner options, ranging from traditional multi-course kaiseki to more casual dining. The variety was impressive—but it was also a little confusing. With kids in the mix, it wasn’t always clear which option would be the best fit for our family.
This is where working with a travel advisor who has direct connections can make all the difference. We help clients understand the differences in experience, style, and menu—so you don’t feel like you’re guessing (or over-investing in something that won’t land well with younger travelers).
Breakfast, however, was an easy win for everyone. It was one of the biggest spreads we’ve ever seen—featuring both Japanese and Western options, including eggs, fresh fruits, fish, miso soup, rice, noodles, and a station serving up thick, fluffy French toast made from the hotel’s signature bread. It was next-level—so over-the-top it could’ve easily passed for dinner. The boys helped themselves to crab legs and soft-serve ice cream before 9am, because why not? When in Japan! I opted for a more traditional Western breakfast – in my yukata with arm bands, of course! Let’s just say… no one left hungry.
The Hakone Circuit: Sulfur, Pirate Ships, and Black Eggs
After breakfast, we set out to complete the Hakone “circuit,” a popular sightseeing route that includes multiple forms of transport to loop around the area’s highlights.
We started with the Hakone Tozan Railway, followed by the Hakone Cable Car, then the scenic ropeway that offers bird’s-eye views of the steaming, volcanic landscape of Owakudani. Due to increased volcanic activity, the hiking trails were closed—but we still enjoyed the surreal views from above.
And yes, we bought the iconic kuro-tamago, or black eggs, hard-boiled in the sulfuric waters of Owakudani. Local legend says each one adds seven years to your life—so I had to buy them!
The ropeway drops you at the edge of Lake Ashi, where we boarded a whimsical pirate ship (yes, really!) for a cruise across the water. By late afternoon, we were hungry and more than ready to unwind, so we grabbed a few snacks from 7-Eleven—something we never expected to become obsessed with in Japan, but here we are. The food is surprisingly fresh, creative, and affordable.
We found a quiet bench by the lake, opened our 7-Eleven feast… and just as we sat down, the clouds parted. After a gray, overcast day, Mount Fuji revealed herself in the distance, towering above the lake in full, majestic view. It was one of those unplanned, unscripted travel moments that felt like a little gift from the universe.
By late afternoon, we were hungry and more than ready to unwind, so we grabbed a few snacks from 7-Eleven—something we never expected to become obsessed with in Japan, but here we are. The food is surprisingly fresh, creative, and affordable.
We found a quiet bench by the lake, opened our 7-Eleven feast… and just as we sat down, the clouds parted. After a gray, overcast day, Mount Fuji revealed herself in the distance, towering above the lake in full, majestic view. It was one of those unplanned, unscripted travel moments that felt like a little gift from the universe.
Elevated, But Still Us
While our travel style has become more elevated over the years—luxury hotels, private guides, curated experiences—we still live for moments like these. A steaming egg in a paper bag. A convenience store picnic. A once-hidden view of Mount Fuji revealing herself just when you need a little reminder of why you travel.
Hakone gave us space to breathe, to slow down, and to connect in a totally different rhythm than the city. It’s a destination that invites you to stop rushing and start soaking it all in.
Just go!
